Invest the time and energy to lovingly fix the mundane aspects of Wanhao’s shitty engineering that they couldn’t be bothered to tune themselves, even in their own terrible slicer profiles.
Don’t follow the dark path of convenience. Yes, folks, there is some kind of Protestant Work Ethic test built into the Cura slicer settings. That will contribute to your unsuccessful prints. All it means is that your have not tuned your extruder and you are resorting to a fudge factor to ‘fix’ it, but you are not really fixing it.
#CETUS3D RESTART PRINT MODS#
Plenty of people with all-metal hotend and glass plate mods told me to get a all-metal hotend and glass plate (even though I specifically asked for advice on a stock V2.1 machine).Įxtrusion multiplier- I HATE that parameter. I got loads of advice to do the aforementioned things I had tried (and noted that I had tried). But, in one last ditch attempt, I posted my problem to Thingiverse and asked the simple question: Can a stock Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2.1 print PETG? I disassembled the print head, cleaned the spotless extruder gear, checked the flawless teflon tube, and cleaned the nozzle with a heat gun and tweezers. I noodled around with lowering print speed, increasing hotend temp, lowering the extrusion multiplier, increasing retraction (distance and speed), and increasing Z offset. The nozzle clogged repeatedly the extruder chewed the filament the plastic balled up on the nozzle the prints looked like hell or outright failed. The standard advice for Wanhao Duplicator i3 owners is to start with the standard Prusa i3 PETG slicing profile in Ultimaker Cura and go from there. People printing with two different PETG brands are often printing with two different chemical compounds with widely varying characteristics.
Troubleshooting PETG plastic printing errors on a Chinese machine requires you to roll all of those problems into the additional problem of PETG being far more variable in composition that something like PLA. Configuration and mods can radically alter the capabilities and problems of individual machines within the same model nameplate. Simply finding out which parts you have in your specific iteration of a given machine is hard enough, but then you also have loads of aftermarket mods, both printed and retail. Companies like Wanhao, Anycubic, FLSUN, Geeetech, Creality, and the rest of the Shenzy Crew practice a kind of rapid iteration configuration management largely dependent on what’s cheapest on the parts market that year/month/week. There are few standard references, even within model series. I realize that troubleshooting an affordable Chinese 3D printer is kind of a nightmare.
#CETUS3D RESTART PRINT TRIAL#
And it benefits greatly from the kinds of trial and error that Wanhao should be doing before they ship their machines. Right now printing is more art than science so be prepared to sacrifice a few prints to learn.Īctually, it’s neither. But I also saw a lot of this woo-woo crap: The conclusion I reached was that PETG is a waste of time without a new hot end. Perusing the online forums was a largely useless process. I’ve spent a lot of frustrating days trying to figure out why my Monoprice machine has such as contentious relationship with PETG. My first prints haven’t been a dream come true, but they were far better than the results I’ve had for the last month. No more jams no more plastic collecting around the nozzle, no more ridiculous temperature wobbles. It’s an entirely different experience from that of the brass nozzle and Teflon cored hot end that comes with the stock machine. I received a Micro Swiss MK10 all-metal hotend for my birthday, and the difference it makes in printing PETG is ridiculous.
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